Vietnam
Sitting on a white sand beach resort in Vietnam, I feel like I could be anywhere. That guilt is returning. Even though it is so lovely, I’ve got nothing to do but read my sappy love story, I still can’t seem to rid myself of feeling guilty for the extravegance of my life. It doesn’t help to see the fully clothed Vietnamese scattered around the beach pushing the sales of gagety keepsakes. It looks the same in Mexico, Rio, Thailand…why do I get to be on this side of the deal? Is it wronge? Should I feel guilt?
Our process of getting here was great. Peter and I were on a wild goose hunt all over Ho Chi Minh City for the train station. Pete had it in his head that he was going to get on a train and head north for the two days that we had in Vietnam before we would fly, with a ship trip, to Cambodia. I think he was looking for a solo adventure but me, being the ever controling (or worrisome) sister that I am decided it would be better if I tagged along. I worry about my boys, I tend to forget that they have grown up a lot since I last lived with them…they are both young men. After a couple hours of walking an good half hour in a taxi and ultimately by the generous help of some 20-something(age) Vietnamese boys who gave us a ride on the back of their motorcycles, we made it to the train station. I didn’t decide until about 5 minutes before Peter boarded the that I was really going with him. Neither of us had brought much of anything because there was some ambivelence as to whether this was really going to happen. But we boarded the train anyways with little more than our swimsuits in our backpacks. I had no part in the researching of where this train might be going. I think Pete had heard about a pretty coast and we thought we might be able to do a beach sleep or something of the likes. The train ride was an adventure in its self and a great way to see the country side…shortly after we hoped on the muggy, non-airconditioned car we were befriended by a sweet Vietnamese women about my age. He english was elementary to say the least, but she was persistant about conversation, bless her. So we spent the next four hours in quizi communication with her. Bought her a train dinner and sat and ate dinner with her. We attempted getting some information from her about where we were going…if there would be places to stay and what not but that didn’t amount to much information. All we knew was the name of the stop that Peter had planned to get off at. The Lonely Planet book had stayed with mom and dad. As evening rolled around and the sun had set, I began to worry a little. All the stops that the train was making were just little platforms with little more than fields of crops surrounding them. The uncertainty didn’t sit quite as well with me as it did with Pete. This was just the adventure he had planned for.
It wasn’t until about 9 that we finally hoped off the train. There was a little station that instilled some hope in me that there might be some accomodations around. But as we emerged out of the station we were struck with a few groups of people around fires in front of what looked like local grocers offering the most basic of stuff, the rest was darkness. Ummmm, where were we? We immediately devised the plan of getting back on the next train headed south if things didn’t start to pan out. But of course we were quickly taken under the wings of some of the men sitting around the fire. They recognized our lighter skin and knew that we were surely headed beyond this point. They quickly, without asking called us a taxi. We weren’t sure this was what we wanted just yet…that might solve Peters adventure a little to easily. And as nice, helpful and hospitible people may be around the world there is alway an inkling of doubt in the help that a stranger offers. We walked a little beyond what immediately met us outside the station but found only more feilds. We return to the men and agreed that a taxi was what we needed. It was there within15 minutes or so. Peter and I were offered coffee and condensed milk as we waited. We got in the taxi, now uncertain of where it would be taking us. But the comfort of an airconditioned car, even at this late hour, was enough to calm me. We spent a good 30 minutes in the car, I think we assumed we were en route to the beach. But the beach wasn’t what our taxi driver had in mind. He dumped us out of the car in the center of some city, and managed to get quite a few dong (currency) our to the exhausted us who couldn’t find it in us to do any bargaining. By this time it was well past 10. We wondered the streets for a while half heartedly looking for a place to crash, while at the same time being slightly disapointed that were weren’t on some form of a beach like we had invisioned. Eventually we came across a hotel. We asked about a room but then decided to inquire about this beach we thought we should be near. Turns out we were on the right track. The two young ladies at the hotel, through map communication assured us that we could find some bungalow-type places to stay at Mui Ni Beach some 20km away. We decided to jump in another taxi and make our way there. Coconut Grove was the name of the place that the ladies had pointed out as a budget bungalow. We were thrilled has the taxi, driven by our female driver, pulled up infront of Coconut Grove. The last few km highend resorts brought us to the conclusion that this wasn’t some vacant beach that we were going to be able to camp on. Infact, the budget bungalow that the we were banking on turned out to be $110 dollars verus the $11 dollars that I thought. Lost a zero somewhere in my currency conversion. That surely wasn’t going to work. We wander down the way for a while longer until we found something that might work for our wallets…it was a bit of a stretch but we went for it anyways. Turned out to be a nice, family run bungalow resort with beach front property, a pool and free breakfast to boot. Wasn’t quite what we envisioned but it didn’t disapoint us either. We have definitely learned that flexibility is a key to successful travel. Have no expectations and its hard to be let down.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
A taste of Thailand
Thailand. Land of beaches, elephants, Buddhism, prostitution and the most incredibly friendly people you may ever meet.
The ship docked in Lam Chabang a newly developed port about 80miles from Bangkok and maybe 15miles or so from Pattaya... Pattaya for those of you that may be following international news is where riots against the current Thai government took place only weeks after our departure. The riots caused for the postponal of a summit that was underway by the heads of Asia. Thailand has what seems to be an ever-changing political system with its constitution being rewritten ever few years over the past decade. But despite all the governmental strife, there is a King and Queen that the Thai people remain very, very loyal to. There picture is hung EVERYWHERE, and at 8 o’clock each morning people take time out of their day to pause while a song is sung to honor the country and the Royal family.
After traveling with the family in each port up until here, I decided it was time for a little Heidi time. I wasn’t necessarily looking to travel independently, just apart from the family. I think we all shared these feelings. My inability to identify what I want and make concrete plans doesn’t make me an easy person to plan with. It also seems, in comparison to our past voyages, that Internet and facebook has allowed people to really plan things out a lot more that in the past. Little did Peter or I know but there was a facebook page started way back in the summer for the Semester at Sea Spring 09 voyage. People started networking and organizing trips together then. All this to say, it’s been harder than I expected to meet people and plan adventures together. So, I accepted my fate as an independent traveler.
On our second day in Thailand I got up at the crack of dawn, 4:30am, a reminder of my crew days that seem oh so long ago. I hopped in a cab and proceeded to sleep for the next two hours as I was delivered to the airport. The taxi ride to the airport was almost as much as my flight (good thing the flight was a reasonable price) but really leaving at that hour taxiing was my only option.
I haven’t told you where I was headed, have I? I opted to head north to Chang Mai, the second largest city in Thailand but substantially smaller in size and much more manageable (though Bangkok is pretty decent for a city its size). I went with no plans but was hopeful of getting some hiking or backpacking in because Chang Mai is located in the foothills of some beautiful, luscious, green mountains. The hike never manifested, mostly due to my inability to decide…again. I’ve dealt with this moral dilemma since I took eco tourism last fall. The backpacker (hostel) I stayed at in Chang Mai and every tourist spot around the city offered these multiple day adventures that included hiking between hill tribe villages, rafting, elephant riding and the likes. They looked really well planned from their brochures and it probably would have been a great way to see the hill tribe people, the natural scenery and get to know some other travelers but I opted not to. Here is where this ties to the eco tourism class I took this fall. Firstly we were required to read a book for the class called “Rethinking Ecotourism and Travel” and secondly we had an amazing lady named Tammy Leland speak to our class. Tammy is the cofounder of a community based tourism company called Crooked Trails operated out of Seattle that runs trips in various parts of the world with a real emphasis on community involvement, where the experience isn’t just for the visitor but also the visited, as well as sensitivity. Tammy has a lot of time with particular hill tribe people around Chang Mai, and really made an effort to establish positive ties with these people so that she can bring travelers and facilitate meaningful engagements between the two groups. The travelers of Crooked Trail tend to have sought out this program because they are looking for a meaningful experience. During their stay in the village they are placed in a family, learn the traditional way and partake in traditional ceremonies. I am not naive and I understand to a certain extent Tammy has to push her business but she explained to the class how she experimented with one of these contrived package deal trips I mention earlier. She decided to be a participant on one and see how it was conducted and compared to the trips Crooked Trails offers. She reflected feeling really uncomfortable being part of a tour group that went into these remote villages where the people were trying to maintain their traditional ways of life. Often times the guides don’t know anything about the local people and the visitor care little more than getting their picture with the tribes people before they proceed to spend the evening drinking and being loud and disruptive. This scenario seems like much less of an exchange and more about exploitation. And while I know I would have likely had a great time this story was ultimately what deterred me. I feared being part of that anymore that I already do feel like I am, sometimes, just by nature of my association to Semester at Sea.
I mentioned the token picture above…. the need of travelers to capture every moment, to take the pictures of unique people, places or things. I made a challenge to myself this semester that I would do minimal photo taking and really make my focus be about my interactions and not so much what I can say I saw. Since not having a camera, I have noticed how much time people spend behind their cameras. The need to take a picture tends to interrupt precious conversation or detract from an actual enjoyment of a beautiful sunset. This in no way is a slam against cameras and taking pictures. I spent a good chunk of my time behind a camera on our last voyage and I am grateful for all the pictures I have and the moments I captured. Perhaps it is a privilege of someone who has already traveled the world that the need for compulsive documenting is less a focus; I have just felt so free and more present of a bi-product of not continually looking through a camera lens. (I’ve also had the up-and-coming photography of my brother Peter to steel from whenever I feel the need. Thanks Pete.)
So yeah, instead of hiking I just spent three days wandering the city and surrounding area. Treating myself to a cheap Thai message every now and again.
Here is a journal entry that logs some of my time…
I just walked out of a 1.5-hour foot massage, reflexology and pedicure (no polish). It was delightful. The ladies were sweet and the feet appreciated the extra love. It’s been a while since I’ve paid them any attention and a few months of travel, flip flop style. To put it lightly, they’ve seen a lot. My calves are incredibly tender right now. I don’t know if it is just from three days of pretty serious Chang Mai walkabouts or it has anything to do with climbing the 306-step stairway up to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (temple a top a hill). Either way, they’ve gotten some work lately. This morning I woke up after a hard nights sleep. Hard in the sense that I was out cold…which was exactly what I needed. I ate the continental breakfast served at the Riverside Guesthouse where I stayed. Watermelon, wonder bread toast and jelly. I ordered a latte from the café next door. Coffee is huge here, they’ve got little coffee joints on every corner and I seem to think I need to try one at every turn too! (Its like I am trying to make up for lost time. The ships coffee is pretty bad, it tastes especially bad on the days when you see them replacing the plastic jug of brown liquid behind the hot water dispenser.)
After breakfast I walked 20 minutes through the business part of town to the train station to buy a ticket for and overnight train back to Bangkok that leaves this evening. I got 2nd class, air-conditioned top bunk sleeper train…. can’t wait to see what it is all about. I need to clarify what I meant by business area. Not men in suits, briefcase-carrying men. I guess I meant to contrast it to the tourist areas that cover Chang Mai and cater to the tourist demands. Rather, the street was lined with stores carrying linoleum roles, tile, baskets, reams of paper, metal hooks and every third shop or so had a food stand our front where it appeared breakfast (which looks just like lunch and dinner) was being served. It consisted of a medley of eggs, noodles, meats, sprouts and nuts.
On my return to the guesthouse, I took a more obscure way. I had the time to get lost, so I weaved my way back through narrow roads that only allowed the passage of walker and motorbikes. I happened upon a local food market with beautiful displays of fruits and veggies, most were varieties I could have never dreamt of in my wildest dreams. Prickly, spotted, purple…you name it, they grow. They pyramids stacking of the produce had me thinking back to the fruit presentation that the tias (aunties, ladies) at the crèche (daycare) did when we had our picnic party at the pool in Rocinha. Lots of credit for presentation. Strawberries are huge right now. Not in size but in quantity. They are everywhere! I’ve resisted until now in an attempt to avoid T.D, clinically called travelers Diarrhea (a well known phenomenon on the ship). But I think it might just be time to live on the edge. Maybe a pre 13-hour train ride treat. I‘ve substituted my sweet craving with a delectable indulge that merits a description here. It’s essentially a fresh made waffle made on a waffle iron in front of you. You get to pick what they mix into the batter. I chose raisins and banana. I think I’d be kidding myself if I tried to deny that they use condensed milk in the batter. There is no way they could taste as sweet as they do without it.
The ship docked in Lam Chabang a newly developed port about 80miles from Bangkok and maybe 15miles or so from Pattaya... Pattaya for those of you that may be following international news is where riots against the current Thai government took place only weeks after our departure. The riots caused for the postponal of a summit that was underway by the heads of Asia. Thailand has what seems to be an ever-changing political system with its constitution being rewritten ever few years over the past decade. But despite all the governmental strife, there is a King and Queen that the Thai people remain very, very loyal to. There picture is hung EVERYWHERE, and at 8 o’clock each morning people take time out of their day to pause while a song is sung to honor the country and the Royal family.
After traveling with the family in each port up until here, I decided it was time for a little Heidi time. I wasn’t necessarily looking to travel independently, just apart from the family. I think we all shared these feelings. My inability to identify what I want and make concrete plans doesn’t make me an easy person to plan with. It also seems, in comparison to our past voyages, that Internet and facebook has allowed people to really plan things out a lot more that in the past. Little did Peter or I know but there was a facebook page started way back in the summer for the Semester at Sea Spring 09 voyage. People started networking and organizing trips together then. All this to say, it’s been harder than I expected to meet people and plan adventures together. So, I accepted my fate as an independent traveler.
On our second day in Thailand I got up at the crack of dawn, 4:30am, a reminder of my crew days that seem oh so long ago. I hopped in a cab and proceeded to sleep for the next two hours as I was delivered to the airport. The taxi ride to the airport was almost as much as my flight (good thing the flight was a reasonable price) but really leaving at that hour taxiing was my only option.
I haven’t told you where I was headed, have I? I opted to head north to Chang Mai, the second largest city in Thailand but substantially smaller in size and much more manageable (though Bangkok is pretty decent for a city its size). I went with no plans but was hopeful of getting some hiking or backpacking in because Chang Mai is located in the foothills of some beautiful, luscious, green mountains. The hike never manifested, mostly due to my inability to decide…again. I’ve dealt with this moral dilemma since I took eco tourism last fall. The backpacker (hostel) I stayed at in Chang Mai and every tourist spot around the city offered these multiple day adventures that included hiking between hill tribe villages, rafting, elephant riding and the likes. They looked really well planned from their brochures and it probably would have been a great way to see the hill tribe people, the natural scenery and get to know some other travelers but I opted not to. Here is where this ties to the eco tourism class I took this fall. Firstly we were required to read a book for the class called “Rethinking Ecotourism and Travel” and secondly we had an amazing lady named Tammy Leland speak to our class. Tammy is the cofounder of a community based tourism company called Crooked Trails operated out of Seattle that runs trips in various parts of the world with a real emphasis on community involvement, where the experience isn’t just for the visitor but also the visited, as well as sensitivity. Tammy has a lot of time with particular hill tribe people around Chang Mai, and really made an effort to establish positive ties with these people so that she can bring travelers and facilitate meaningful engagements between the two groups. The travelers of Crooked Trail tend to have sought out this program because they are looking for a meaningful experience. During their stay in the village they are placed in a family, learn the traditional way and partake in traditional ceremonies. I am not naive and I understand to a certain extent Tammy has to push her business but she explained to the class how she experimented with one of these contrived package deal trips I mention earlier. She decided to be a participant on one and see how it was conducted and compared to the trips Crooked Trails offers. She reflected feeling really uncomfortable being part of a tour group that went into these remote villages where the people were trying to maintain their traditional ways of life. Often times the guides don’t know anything about the local people and the visitor care little more than getting their picture with the tribes people before they proceed to spend the evening drinking and being loud and disruptive. This scenario seems like much less of an exchange and more about exploitation. And while I know I would have likely had a great time this story was ultimately what deterred me. I feared being part of that anymore that I already do feel like I am, sometimes, just by nature of my association to Semester at Sea.
I mentioned the token picture above…. the need of travelers to capture every moment, to take the pictures of unique people, places or things. I made a challenge to myself this semester that I would do minimal photo taking and really make my focus be about my interactions and not so much what I can say I saw. Since not having a camera, I have noticed how much time people spend behind their cameras. The need to take a picture tends to interrupt precious conversation or detract from an actual enjoyment of a beautiful sunset. This in no way is a slam against cameras and taking pictures. I spent a good chunk of my time behind a camera on our last voyage and I am grateful for all the pictures I have and the moments I captured. Perhaps it is a privilege of someone who has already traveled the world that the need for compulsive documenting is less a focus; I have just felt so free and more present of a bi-product of not continually looking through a camera lens. (I’ve also had the up-and-coming photography of my brother Peter to steel from whenever I feel the need. Thanks Pete.)
So yeah, instead of hiking I just spent three days wandering the city and surrounding area. Treating myself to a cheap Thai message every now and again.
Here is a journal entry that logs some of my time…
I just walked out of a 1.5-hour foot massage, reflexology and pedicure (no polish). It was delightful. The ladies were sweet and the feet appreciated the extra love. It’s been a while since I’ve paid them any attention and a few months of travel, flip flop style. To put it lightly, they’ve seen a lot. My calves are incredibly tender right now. I don’t know if it is just from three days of pretty serious Chang Mai walkabouts or it has anything to do with climbing the 306-step stairway up to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (temple a top a hill). Either way, they’ve gotten some work lately. This morning I woke up after a hard nights sleep. Hard in the sense that I was out cold…which was exactly what I needed. I ate the continental breakfast served at the Riverside Guesthouse where I stayed. Watermelon, wonder bread toast and jelly. I ordered a latte from the café next door. Coffee is huge here, they’ve got little coffee joints on every corner and I seem to think I need to try one at every turn too! (Its like I am trying to make up for lost time. The ships coffee is pretty bad, it tastes especially bad on the days when you see them replacing the plastic jug of brown liquid behind the hot water dispenser.)
After breakfast I walked 20 minutes through the business part of town to the train station to buy a ticket for and overnight train back to Bangkok that leaves this evening. I got 2nd class, air-conditioned top bunk sleeper train…. can’t wait to see what it is all about. I need to clarify what I meant by business area. Not men in suits, briefcase-carrying men. I guess I meant to contrast it to the tourist areas that cover Chang Mai and cater to the tourist demands. Rather, the street was lined with stores carrying linoleum roles, tile, baskets, reams of paper, metal hooks and every third shop or so had a food stand our front where it appeared breakfast (which looks just like lunch and dinner) was being served. It consisted of a medley of eggs, noodles, meats, sprouts and nuts.
On my return to the guesthouse, I took a more obscure way. I had the time to get lost, so I weaved my way back through narrow roads that only allowed the passage of walker and motorbikes. I happened upon a local food market with beautiful displays of fruits and veggies, most were varieties I could have never dreamt of in my wildest dreams. Prickly, spotted, purple…you name it, they grow. They pyramids stacking of the produce had me thinking back to the fruit presentation that the tias (aunties, ladies) at the crèche (daycare) did when we had our picnic party at the pool in Rocinha. Lots of credit for presentation. Strawberries are huge right now. Not in size but in quantity. They are everywhere! I’ve resisted until now in an attempt to avoid T.D, clinically called travelers Diarrhea (a well known phenomenon on the ship). But I think it might just be time to live on the edge. Maybe a pre 13-hour train ride treat. I‘ve substituted my sweet craving with a delectable indulge that merits a description here. It’s essentially a fresh made waffle made on a waffle iron in front of you. You get to pick what they mix into the batter. I chose raisins and banana. I think I’d be kidding myself if I tried to deny that they use condensed milk in the batter. There is no way they could taste as sweet as they do without it.
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